I decided to create this blog in order to keep home Buyers and Sellers informed, regarding the present condition of their home. My name is David Valley and I am the owner and founder of Massachusetts Home Inspections,LLC. I have performed over 3,000 home inspections throughout the East Coast. I enjoy assisting home owners in determining the present condition of their home. The first thing I would like to do is to sell myself to all homeowners. I will then utilize this blog to periodically post information concerning your home. Please enjoy my Blog. If you hhave any questions, whatsoever...Please email me.
When your making a financial commitment of purchasing or selling your Massachusetts home, your best judgment is to rely on the analysis of a skilled professional Home Inspector. I can afford you that expert opinion. I have the trained eye and experience needed to look for visual signs of defects within any home. I'm also committed to providing you with the highest level of professional service in the home inspection industry.
My standards are always among the highest in the industry and meet or exceed every standard set by the Commonwealth of Massachusetts and iNACHI (International Association of Certified Home Inspectors). I have the training and experience to accurately assess the condition of any home, and possess the communication skills to clearly describe the inspection results to you. Through my commitment, experience, and expertise I will establish and personalize a business relationship with every one of my clients that will last for as long as you own your home.
I will slowly and methodically walk you through your home and fully educate you on all of its features to help you understand your property. I will assess those areas where upgrades or replacements may be necessary and screen for those costly defects and safety issues that could lead to problems in your future living conditions. I'll locate those areas that need attention now and at the same time you'll have the opportunity to ask me questions while we view and consider the object of your investment together.
As an added Bonus; along with every Home Inspection report, I will include a complimentary 64 page home information & maintenance manual "Know Your Home" that I have personally written for all my clients. This guide contains invaluable information that will explain in detail almost every concern that you may have pertaining to your new property. This comprehensive manual has all the answers and is a must for every homeowner.
Before you invest hundreds of thousands of dollars in a Massachusetts Home Inspection; be sure you hire Massachusetts Home Inspections, LLC to verify that your home does not contain major defects that could cost you thousands of dollars after you move in. I am State licensed; Nationally Certified and Fully Insured. I can and will reduce the risk of any major or expensive surprises that may happen after you take ownership of your new home.
Please browse my site for all the information you'll ever need concerning your upcoming Massachusetts Home Inspection.
Massachusetts Home Inspections
Thursday, November 12, 2009
Purchasing a home with lead paint
Lead has been mined, smelted, and compounded for thousands of years. Lead is a neurotoxin metallic element that was historically used in paint, gasoline and plumbing materials for many years. Lead was easy to work with for a variety of purposes, which is why mining and smelting of lead has caused millions of tons to be spread into our environment. Lead poisoning occurs only when too much lead accumulates in the body.
Generally, lead poisoning occurs slowly, resulting from the gradual accumulation of lead in bone and tissue after repeated exposure. However, it is important to note that young children absorb 50% of a lead ingestion while adults absorb only 10%. Pregnant women should be especially cautious of lead exposure. The presence of lead dust can cause difficulties during pregnancy. Lead enters the bloodstream and can pass the placental barrier from the mother to the unborn child. The fetus can then be poisoned before birth.
Lead is very dangerous for children under the age of six because it is absorbed more readily into their blood and stored more easily in their bones and internal organs. Lead can be absorbed by the body, primarily through the lungs and stomach. If a child is overexposed to lead it can cause disastrous consequences including the possibility of irreversible brain and nervous system damage. Lead poisoned infants, children, and fetuses can suffer from permanent learning disabilities, behavioral problems, hearing problems, developmental delays, reduced hand-eye coordination and other serious health conditions. Even children who appear healthy can have lead poisoning. If you think your child or other family members may be at risk, contact your physician or local health department for testing, immediately.
WHERE CAN LEAD BE FOUND?
DRINKING WATER - is a potential source of lead. This is usually from lead in solder, fixtures and lead piping in the home. Some water pipes in homes built before the 1930's were made of lead, especially the main water pipe that penetrates the foundation. In both old and new homes, lead solder was also used in copper piping. Both of these can be a source of lead in your drinking water. I will be inspecting all visible piping within the building and any lead piping that is found, will absolutely be noted and highlighted in the PLUMBING section of your inspection report.
HOUSE PAINTS - Most houses built prior to World War II had lead-based paint applied to the interior or exterior surfaces. It was used until 1978, when it was banned. Some of these paints still remain inside older homes and may be particularly hazardous if in poor condition (chipped or peeling) or if disturbed by sanding or abrasion (creating lead dust).
Lead was used in paint because it lasted forever in the environment and never broke down into a harmless substance. The amount of lead in paint was reduced in 1950 and further reduced again in 1978. Houses built before 1950 are very likely to contain lead paint while houses built after 1950 will have less lead in the paint. House paints sold today have very low levels of lead.
Lead dust is released from chipping and peeling paint; home renovation projects that disturb lead paint; and lead paint ground up by friction, such as on window sashes, porch floors, etc. Because children naturally engage in hand-to-mouth activities, they are more likely to accidentally ingest lead.Over many years, painted surfaces usually crumble into household dust. This dust clings to toys, fingers and other objects that children normally put into their mouths. This is the most common way lead gets into your child's system.
Children also get dangerous lead levels into their bodies by chewing on lead painted surfaces. Some young children even eat paint chips that are peeling or chipping. The taste is what makes them come back for more. Believe it or not, Lead paint taste sweet, so children and pets are attracted to the taste of lead paint. In accordance with Massachusetts law, any unit or single family home with an occupant who is less than six years old must be deleaded.
TESTING FOR LEAD PAINT
To determine the presence of lead in paint, dust, water, and soil is best done by trained professionals. Massachusetts requires all lead inspectors to be state-certified.
Professional testing companies use three basic methods to measure lead in paint:
1) X-ray fluorescence (XRF) uses portable detectors that X-ray a painted surface to measure the amount of lead in all the layers of paint. This type of testing is done in the home and disturbs little, if any, paint.
2)Laboratory testing of paint samples involves removing samples of paint from each surface to be tested, usually from an area of about two square inches. Samples are sent to laboratories for analysis. This method leaves a bare spot on each surface tested.
3)Spot checks are performed with swabs. Swabs do not tell you how much lead is present and their reliability at detecting low levels of lead has not been determined. Professional testing for lead in paint is highly recommended. If you are seeking a professional lead inspection in order to obtain a Certificate stating that a specific home is free of Lead paint, I do not issue lead Certificates. You must contact a Lead Abatement company from your area.
Generally, lead poisoning occurs slowly, resulting from the gradual accumulation of lead in bone and tissue after repeated exposure. However, it is important to note that young children absorb 50% of a lead ingestion while adults absorb only 10%. Pregnant women should be especially cautious of lead exposure. The presence of lead dust can cause difficulties during pregnancy. Lead enters the bloodstream and can pass the placental barrier from the mother to the unborn child. The fetus can then be poisoned before birth.
Lead is very dangerous for children under the age of six because it is absorbed more readily into their blood and stored more easily in their bones and internal organs. Lead can be absorbed by the body, primarily through the lungs and stomach. If a child is overexposed to lead it can cause disastrous consequences including the possibility of irreversible brain and nervous system damage. Lead poisoned infants, children, and fetuses can suffer from permanent learning disabilities, behavioral problems, hearing problems, developmental delays, reduced hand-eye coordination and other serious health conditions. Even children who appear healthy can have lead poisoning. If you think your child or other family members may be at risk, contact your physician or local health department for testing, immediately.
WHERE CAN LEAD BE FOUND?
DRINKING WATER - is a potential source of lead. This is usually from lead in solder, fixtures and lead piping in the home. Some water pipes in homes built before the 1930's were made of lead, especially the main water pipe that penetrates the foundation. In both old and new homes, lead solder was also used in copper piping. Both of these can be a source of lead in your drinking water. I will be inspecting all visible piping within the building and any lead piping that is found, will absolutely be noted and highlighted in the PLUMBING section of your inspection report.
A variety of lead pipes
HOUSE PAINTS - Most houses built prior to World War II had lead-based paint applied to the interior or exterior surfaces. It was used until 1978, when it was banned. Some of these paints still remain inside older homes and may be particularly hazardous if in poor condition (chipped or peeling) or if disturbed by sanding or abrasion (creating lead dust).
Lead was used in paint because it lasted forever in the environment and never broke down into a harmless substance. The amount of lead in paint was reduced in 1950 and further reduced again in 1978. Houses built before 1950 are very likely to contain lead paint while houses built after 1950 will have less lead in the paint. House paints sold today have very low levels of lead.
Lead paint that needs immediate attention
Lead dust is released from chipping and peeling paint; home renovation projects that disturb lead paint; and lead paint ground up by friction, such as on window sashes, porch floors, etc. Because children naturally engage in hand-to-mouth activities, they are more likely to accidentally ingest lead.Over many years, painted surfaces usually crumble into household dust. This dust clings to toys, fingers and other objects that children normally put into their mouths. This is the most common way lead gets into your child's system.
Children also get dangerous lead levels into their bodies by chewing on lead painted surfaces. Some young children even eat paint chips that are peeling or chipping. The taste is what makes them come back for more. Believe it or not, Lead paint taste sweet, so children and pets are attracted to the taste of lead paint. In accordance with Massachusetts law, any unit or single family home with an occupant who is less than six years old must be deleaded.
TESTING FOR LEAD PAINT
To determine the presence of lead in paint, dust, water, and soil is best done by trained professionals. Massachusetts requires all lead inspectors to be state-certified.
Professional testing companies use three basic methods to measure lead in paint:
1) X-ray fluorescence (XRF) uses portable detectors that X-ray a painted surface to measure the amount of lead in all the layers of paint. This type of testing is done in the home and disturbs little, if any, paint.
2)Laboratory testing of paint samples involves removing samples of paint from each surface to be tested, usually from an area of about two square inches. Samples are sent to laboratories for analysis. This method leaves a bare spot on each surface tested.
3)Spot checks are performed with swabs. Swabs do not tell you how much lead is present and their reliability at detecting low levels of lead has not been determined. Professional testing for lead in paint is highly recommended. If you are seeking a professional lead inspection in order to obtain a Certificate stating that a specific home is free of Lead paint, I do not issue lead Certificates. You must contact a Lead Abatement company from your area.
| Despite efforts to reduce lead in the average American home, the Department of Housing and Urban Development estimated that as of December 2004, 38 million homes in the United States still contained lead paint to some degree. HUD also figures that 25% of the country's residential buildings contain significant lead-based paint hazards. That's about 24 million homes with either deteriorating lead-based paint or lead-contaminated dust. In 1992, the Lead-Based Paint Hazard Reduction Act required disclosure of known lead hazards at the time a house is sold or leased, if that home was built before 1978. (Houses built before 1960 are classed as high risk and are almost certain to have at least some lead-based paint. Problems with the 1992 act stem from the lack of testing in many older homes. If you purchase an older home, the interior and exterior need to be tested thoroughly for the presence of lead-based paint before you can occupy the home safely. |
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
Termites and how to monitor your home
WATCH AND HEAR LIVE TERMITES IN ACTION
Click the computer screen
VIEW ACTUAL SIZE OF LIVE TERMITES NEXT TO A DIME
Of all Wood Boring insects, Termites are definitely the most damaging wood destroying insects out there. Did you know that the average single-family home has as many as three to four termite colonies beneath it (and each colony contains as many as 1 million winged residents). It's very important to prevent these colonies from attacking your home and causing extensive structural damage.
Termites must remain in moist areas in order to survive (which I will get into more detail next). Once they arrive into an open space they build mud tunnels in order to remain in a moist environment. The smallest of cracks in your foundation -- usually a basement or concrete slab -- is enough for those sneaky little termites to gain entry into your home. They will utilize the cracks to gain access to the wood framing because it's much easier for them to use naturally occuring cracks than to build mud tunnels to protect themselves from the dry environment. Once they're inside your home, anything made of wood -- from framing within the structure (especially sills), window and door frames to subfloors to furniture -- is fair game. You're not able to visibly see termites because they feed undetected. Termite workers attack the wood in your home from the inside out and infestations can go undiscovered until the wood is almost completely destroyed, which could take many years.
As if this scenario weren't bad enough, after they feast on your structure, termites leave behind a chemical trail that sends signals to other termites that food is near. Once started, this trail of destruction is impossible to stop without the services of a professional exterminator who is skilled at locating the hidden regions of your home where these termites take up residence. Wood-boring insects are difficult to control by homeowners once an infestation has begun. Treating insects is not a do-it-yourself project. If you have signs of Termite activity, do yourself a favor, hire a professional exterminator for full treatment.
WHAT ARE TERMITES ATTRACTED TO, BESIDES WOOD?
It's Moisture. It's extremely difficult to ward off moisture throughout your home, and especially underneath it, where termites gain initial entry to your property. It's impossible to dry out areas under your home. The good news is that in many cases, the problem starts in areas you can reach (outside and around your home), where wood products are exposed to the elements and thus trap moisture. Prevention is the best management method.
HERE'S HOW YOU CAN PROTECT YOUR HOME AGAINST TERMITES:
Above all, schedule an annual termite inspection and watch for mud tunnels over exposed exterior surfaces of your home (especially the foundation) and monitor for swarming termites in April and May.
Trim all shrubs, bushes, vines and other dense greenery away from the foundation and the siding of your home. Any vegetation touching your home will give Termites easy access to the structure. They simply make their trail behind the vines and vegetation to protect them from sunlight.
So many homeowners collect big piles of firewood outside their homes come wintertime. But some of us who don't use the entire pile let it sit throughout the rest of the year. This does you no good for many reasons. First, the firewood begins to rot as it's exposed to changes in the weather; second, it's ultimately useless because it becomes wet with moisture; and third (and most important), it's a magnet for termites seeking a home. You'll obviously need to store some firewood outdoors during the winter months -- particularly if you light fires often -- so your best bet is to keep the pile raised off the ground and away from the side of your house. Also, try to keep it protected from rain.
Consistent with the reasoning of the above-listed point, remove all lumber, tree stumps and any other variety of wood from the parameters of your home. If you're saving some wood for that home-improvement project you're planning to tackle on a rainy day, store it in your garage in a high and dry area. No wood should be touching the ground around your house, period. Including all exterior finishes (the siding) of your home. These areas should be 6 to 8 inches above grading.
This includes removal and replacement of any wood posts or stair stringers that penetrate concrete floors or rest on dirt on the exterior of the home or in the basement or crawl space. These penetrations will only invite Termites and provide avenues for their passage to more appetizing segments of the structure.
If you've got leaky pipes or any accumulation of water underneath your home, call a professional (or tackle the job yourself if you're capable). If you've been putting off the job, don't stall any longer. You may already have attracted termites to the water. By the same token, if you find standing water anywhere -- inside or outside your home -- remedy the problem and get rid of the moisture immediately. (Please read "Wet Basements" for more detailed information).
Clean all your gutters and downspouts regularly. Clogs and other obstructions will cause the gutters to overflow resulting in moist grading around your foundation which will attract termite populations. Inspect your gutters regularly for signs of disrepair. Inspect your home's crawl space you have one. It may be in your best interest to determine if the space is properly protected in order to stave off Termites. Moisture and humidity in crawl spaces can be reduced by installing a 4-6 mil polyethylene sheeting over the soil surface. This cover will act as a vapor barrier to reduce evaporation from the soil and condensation of moisture on floor joists and sub flooring. (Please read "Your Crawl Space" for more detailed information).
Since Termites can prey on the outside of your home, inspect your home regularly for any foundation cracks. If you find cracks inside or outside, seal them immediately. Ensure that your home receives continual maintenance to keep its exterior paint in good condition. Chipping, peeling paint can increase the likelihood of termite infestation due to moisture accumulation on unprotected wood.
As a homeowner, you can never prevent termite infestation with 100 percent certainty. However, you can take these various measures to decrease the probability of an infestation in your home. Considering both the cost of damage and inspection/extermination, you have absolutely nothing to lose by attempting to perform every one of these precautions. Yes, it is true that Termites may find a meal at your house eventually, but they are not the only pests ready to eat your house. Remember...there are two types of homes out there, homes that have been infested with Termites and homes that have not been infested with Termites...YET.
Sunday, January 11, 2009
Infrared (Thermal) Imaging in Massachusetts
There are many building envelope issues that can generate significant heat loss, which causes energy dollars to be wasted in a not-so-tight home. And with the rising costs of heating fuels today, keeping a not-so-tight home comfortably warm can be very costly. Homeowners now have the opportunity to reduce their exorbitant monthly heating bills caused from our New England freezing winter months. A good place to start would be a professional Infrared (thermal) Home-Energy Efficiency Inspection.
An Infrared Home-Energy Efficiency Inspection is the use of an infrared (thermal) imaging camera that can actually "see" and "measure" thermal energy emitted from the walls, ceilings and floors of a home. It’s simply a non-invasive tool that is used to see what’s actually going on inside many living area walls, ceilings and floors. If there’s cold air infiltrating into a warm room, my infrared camera will sense this temperature difference that is transferring to the most inner surface of a living area and it will display these readings in a color and temperature format on my IR camera screen. I will then interpret the IR readings directly to my client (the homeowner). I will literally show them the real-time colorful images of the anomalies within their walls and ceilings. I will then advise them on how to properly insulate these inefficiencies that are uncovered throughout their home. Infrared imaging is becoming the number one tool being utilized today to locate those concealed un-insulated wall and ceiling cavities. While scanning a home for inefficiencies, I am also able to locate other hidden defects that may be lurking within the walls, ceilings and floors of a building. These anomalies include faulty electrical wiring (whether it is in the wall or exposed), to the presence of concealed Termites. Even a Mold build-up will affect the surrounding temperature of a surface and this moist area will be detected during a thermal scan.
A typical Energy Efficiency scan (on 2000 sq. ft. home) takes approximately 1 hour. This includes the actual thermal scan, obtaining both... the IR and digital images, then carefully interpreting and explaining my findings to my client. Once I finalize the infrared scan on-site, my findings will then be compiled into a professional report (at my office) and emailed to you in .PDF format within 24 hours. The fee on this particular IR scan will be $375.00. Pricing will always be based on the hourly scan, time of reporting and the distance that I have traveled.
Every homeowner craves the opportunity to stop their hard earned energy dollars from slipping right through the cracks of their home, and I’m going to show them how it be accomplished with a little effort on their part. The costs of the infrared scan and upgrading an inefficient home will be recouped from the monthly heat savings alone. Not only will homeowners pay less on their heating bills, they’ll be enjoying the comforts of a warm home and alleviating those bothersome cold spots within the home.
For those home owners who live in newly constructed homes and homes that have already been professionally insulated, and feel that their home is perfect, I’ve got some surprising news for you. I’ve been contracted by many (new home) builders who are curious as to how efficient their walls really were and I easily located inefficiencies throughout the entire home. I’ve also been contracted by homeowners who recently had their home professionally insulated and they simply wanted to know how tight the insulation was. To this day, I have failed to locate an insulation company that has filled every last cavity in a home. There will be imperfections in every home and IR imaging will detect these insulation voids within minutes. There is no home perfect home out there and infrared imaging will prove that.
You will be hiring an expert who has a solid understanding of heat transfer laws, thermal dynamics and properties of why objects are hot or not or appear to be hot or not. My infrared camera allows me to identify hidden problem areas much faster and (in most cases) can even avoid building owners from using invasive and destructive measures in order to pinpoint problem areas behind the finished surfaces of their building.
If you have any questions, please feel free to visit my website at http://www.massinfrared.com/ or you can call me direct at 978-683-4984.
An Infrared Home-Energy Efficiency Inspection is the use of an infrared (thermal) imaging camera that can actually "see" and "measure" thermal energy emitted from the walls, ceilings and floors of a home. It’s simply a non-invasive tool that is used to see what’s actually going on inside many living area walls, ceilings and floors. If there’s cold air infiltrating into a warm room, my infrared camera will sense this temperature difference that is transferring to the most inner surface of a living area and it will display these readings in a color and temperature format on my IR camera screen. I will then interpret the IR readings directly to my client (the homeowner). I will literally show them the real-time colorful images of the anomalies within their walls and ceilings. I will then advise them on how to properly insulate these inefficiencies that are uncovered throughout their home. Infrared imaging is becoming the number one tool being utilized today to locate those concealed un-insulated wall and ceiling cavities. While scanning a home for inefficiencies, I am also able to locate other hidden defects that may be lurking within the walls, ceilings and floors of a building. These anomalies include faulty electrical wiring (whether it is in the wall or exposed), to the presence of concealed Termites. Even a Mold build-up will affect the surrounding temperature of a surface and this moist area will be detected during a thermal scan.
A typical Energy Efficiency scan (on 2000 sq. ft. home) takes approximately 1 hour. This includes the actual thermal scan, obtaining both... the IR and digital images, then carefully interpreting and explaining my findings to my client. Once I finalize the infrared scan on-site, my findings will then be compiled into a professional report (at my office) and emailed to you in .PDF format within 24 hours. The fee on this particular IR scan will be $375.00. Pricing will always be based on the hourly scan, time of reporting and the distance that I have traveled.
Every homeowner craves the opportunity to stop their hard earned energy dollars from slipping right through the cracks of their home, and I’m going to show them how it be accomplished with a little effort on their part. The costs of the infrared scan and upgrading an inefficient home will be recouped from the monthly heat savings alone. Not only will homeowners pay less on their heating bills, they’ll be enjoying the comforts of a warm home and alleviating those bothersome cold spots within the home.
For those home owners who live in newly constructed homes and homes that have already been professionally insulated, and feel that their home is perfect, I’ve got some surprising news for you. I’ve been contracted by many (new home) builders who are curious as to how efficient their walls really were and I easily located inefficiencies throughout the entire home. I’ve also been contracted by homeowners who recently had their home professionally insulated and they simply wanted to know how tight the insulation was. To this day, I have failed to locate an insulation company that has filled every last cavity in a home. There will be imperfections in every home and IR imaging will detect these insulation voids within minutes. There is no home perfect home out there and infrared imaging will prove that.
You will be hiring an expert who has a solid understanding of heat transfer laws, thermal dynamics and properties of why objects are hot or not or appear to be hot or not. My infrared camera allows me to identify hidden problem areas much faster and (in most cases) can even avoid building owners from using invasive and destructive measures in order to pinpoint problem areas behind the finished surfaces of their building.
If you have any questions, please feel free to visit my website at http://www.massinfrared.com/ or you can call me direct at 978-683-4984.
Tips
- New home, old home...it doesn't matter.
Things You'll Need
Wednesday, November 05, 2008
Most Common Home Inspection Defects
I encounter defective components in homes on an everyday basis. There just isn't a perfect home out there, anywhere. The following defects are most likely going to be found on a typical home inspection.
The house (as a whole) is poorly maintained – Deferred maintenance represents a potential high cost situation to bring the home back into a satisfactory condition. If the present homeowner (Seller) did not properly care for their home over the years, then someone will need to upgrade the home sooner or later. Preferably sooner than later. In a situation like this, my home inspection report can be utilized as a checklist in order to get the home back up to healthy standards.
Poor drainage around the building - All roof water needs to drain away from the building at its lower perimeter in order to prevent water intrusion into the basement. Roof gutters, downspouts and downspout extensions can be installed to rectify any roof drainage problems. Grading (sloped away from the foundation) is also very important in this situation. 98% of the homes I inspect absolutely need improvements in the grading.
Electrical - Insufficient overload protection to the home's electrical service and amateur (and often dangerous) wiring connections are the most common everyday issues. Electrical system problems are safety related and require immediate attention by a licensed Electrician, ASAP.
Inadequate Insulation and Ventilation in the attic – Poorly installed or inadequate insulation and improper ventilation causes excessive utility costs, lack of occupant comfort and moisture/mold build-up. Most older homes require additional insulation, which then requires ventilation improvement. In other situations... in an effort to save energy, many homeowners have “over sealed” their homes with insulation with no regard to ventilation, resulting in excessive interior moisture due to the inadequate ventilation. Significant moisture and excessive heat build-up within the attic cavity can lead to rapid shingle deterioration, Mold build-up, peeling of exterior paint, rusty nails, energy losses and rotting and failure of both structural and non-structural elements.
Heating/Cooling System Defects - Improper installations, inadequate maintenance, exhaust and combustion issues, aged components, and malfunctioning safety controls are the most frequent issues I usually encounter on a daily basis.
Roof Issues – Improperly installed and aged roof surfaces occur frequently. I often find poorly installed or missing flashing at transition areas. Repairs may be simple or (at times) the entire roof may need to be replaced.
Minor Structural Damage - Minor structural damage means the house is not likely to fall down, but someone should correct the problems before they become more serious issues later. Such damage is usually caused by water seepage into the foundation, floor joists, rafters or window and door headers and are found unstable. First you need to correct the cause of the problem (a leaky roof or improper drainage outside the foundation, for example), then repair or replace any damaged structural members. Inadequate caulking and weather stripping is most common. Obviously, the more extensive the damage, the more expensive it will be to repair.
Plumbing Issues – The most common defects are leaking gaskets, deteriorated cast iron waste pipes, leaking and outdated problematic systems like polybutylene and galvanized piping and any incompatible piping materials. Repairs can often be performed by a licensed Plumber but on occasion, there's extensive damage and a total system replacement is the only solution.
Air and Water Penetrating Cracks and Window Perimeters at Exterior – Foundation cracks and separations at basement windows can allow water into the wall cavities which is conducive to rot and Mold growth. Finished basements with moisture issues require removing walls and floor coverings after repairing the water entry area.
Attic and Structural Damage – Cut, modified and broken trusses, rafters and floor joists are often found in attic cavities and on occasion I will find structural components missing. Usually carpentry repairs are needed in these situations, however I find it is rarely an imminent safety hazard.
Termite and other wood destroying organisms- Due the local environment and conducive conditions. All wood boring insect damage can absolutely be corrected. Costs will always depend on how excessive the insect damage is. The wood sill on top of the foundation is the worst area to have an infestation as this area will be very costly to repair because the house will need to be professionally lifted in order to remove the damaged sills and replace with new sills.
Fire safety issues - Related to Electrical issues (above) and fireplaces and wood stoves are often neglected by homeowners.
Now someone must take the responsibility to repair these defects soon and if you personally decided to take on these issues yourself, you will most likely be looking for specialized contractors to perform the repairs for you. I highly suggest you check all contractors licenses and their references before you hire anyone to perform work around your home that requires skill. Be especially aware of Home Depot remodeling contractors.
The house (as a whole) is poorly maintained – Deferred maintenance represents a potential high cost situation to bring the home back into a satisfactory condition. If the present homeowner (Seller) did not properly care for their home over the years, then someone will need to upgrade the home sooner or later. Preferably sooner than later. In a situation like this, my home inspection report can be utilized as a checklist in order to get the home back up to healthy standards.
Poor drainage around the building - All roof water needs to drain away from the building at its lower perimeter in order to prevent water intrusion into the basement. Roof gutters, downspouts and downspout extensions can be installed to rectify any roof drainage problems. Grading (sloped away from the foundation) is also very important in this situation. 98% of the homes I inspect absolutely need improvements in the grading.
Electrical - Insufficient overload protection to the home's electrical service and amateur (and often dangerous) wiring connections are the most common everyday issues. Electrical system problems are safety related and require immediate attention by a licensed Electrician, ASAP.
Inadequate Insulation and Ventilation in the attic – Poorly installed or inadequate insulation and improper ventilation causes excessive utility costs, lack of occupant comfort and moisture/mold build-up. Most older homes require additional insulation, which then requires ventilation improvement. In other situations... in an effort to save energy, many homeowners have “over sealed” their homes with insulation with no regard to ventilation, resulting in excessive interior moisture due to the inadequate ventilation. Significant moisture and excessive heat build-up within the attic cavity can lead to rapid shingle deterioration, Mold build-up, peeling of exterior paint, rusty nails, energy losses and rotting and failure of both structural and non-structural elements.
Heating/Cooling System Defects - Improper installations, inadequate maintenance, exhaust and combustion issues, aged components, and malfunctioning safety controls are the most frequent issues I usually encounter on a daily basis.
Roof Issues – Improperly installed and aged roof surfaces occur frequently. I often find poorly installed or missing flashing at transition areas. Repairs may be simple or (at times) the entire roof may need to be replaced.
Minor Structural Damage - Minor structural damage means the house is not likely to fall down, but someone should correct the problems before they become more serious issues later. Such damage is usually caused by water seepage into the foundation, floor joists, rafters or window and door headers and are found unstable. First you need to correct the cause of the problem (a leaky roof or improper drainage outside the foundation, for example), then repair or replace any damaged structural members. Inadequate caulking and weather stripping is most common. Obviously, the more extensive the damage, the more expensive it will be to repair.
Plumbing Issues – The most common defects are leaking gaskets, deteriorated cast iron waste pipes, leaking and outdated problematic systems like polybutylene and galvanized piping and any incompatible piping materials. Repairs can often be performed by a licensed Plumber but on occasion, there's extensive damage and a total system replacement is the only solution.
Air and Water Penetrating Cracks and Window Perimeters at Exterior – Foundation cracks and separations at basement windows can allow water into the wall cavities which is conducive to rot and Mold growth. Finished basements with moisture issues require removing walls and floor coverings after repairing the water entry area.
Attic and Structural Damage – Cut, modified and broken trusses, rafters and floor joists are often found in attic cavities and on occasion I will find structural components missing. Usually carpentry repairs are needed in these situations, however I find it is rarely an imminent safety hazard.
Termite and other wood destroying organisms- Due the local environment and conducive conditions. All wood boring insect damage can absolutely be corrected. Costs will always depend on how excessive the insect damage is. The wood sill on top of the foundation is the worst area to have an infestation as this area will be very costly to repair because the house will need to be professionally lifted in order to remove the damaged sills and replace with new sills.
Fire safety issues - Related to Electrical issues (above) and fireplaces and wood stoves are often neglected by homeowners.
Now someone must take the responsibility to repair these defects soon and if you personally decided to take on these issues yourself, you will most likely be looking for specialized contractors to perform the repairs for you. I highly suggest you check all contractors licenses and their references before you hire anyone to perform work around your home that requires skill. Be especially aware of Home Depot remodeling contractors.
Saturday, June 28, 2008
PURCHASING A HOME WITH ALUMINUM WIRING
This picture is a perfect example of the problems that are associated with Aluminum wiring. Note letters A and B (the insulation jackets are melted), which I will explain "Why" in the third paragraph and C (mixing copper wiring with aluminum wiring on the same breaker). Aluminum wiring can not be mixed with copper wiring and breakers can not be double tapped with two wires, unless designated by manufacturer and the breaker connnection will contain a special clip for double tapping. Aluminum wiring is very easy to identify due to it's obvious aluminum color. Aluminum wiring is not to be confused with tin coated copper which looks similar to aluminum wiring but aluminum wiring has distinguishing characteristics and is a solid conductor.
During the 1970's, aluminum (instead of copper) wiring became quite popular and was extensively used throughout the United States. Since that time, aluminum wiring has been implicated in a number of house fires, which caused jurisdictions to no longer permit aluminum wiring in new installations. I highly recommend that you do not use aluminum wiring for any type of new installation. But don't panic if your house does contain aluminum wiring. Aluminum wiring, when properly installed, can be just as safe as copper wiring. Aluminum wiring is, however, very unforgiving of improper installations. I will cover a bit of the theory behind potential electrical problems, and what you can do to make your wiring (in your home) safe.
The main problem that exists with aluminum wiring is a phenomenon known as "cold creep". When aluminum wiring warms up, it expands. When it cools down, it contracts. Unlike copper, when aluminum goes through a number of warm/cool cycles it loses a bit of it's tightness over time. To make the problem worse, aluminum oxidizes (or corrodes) when in contact with certain types of metal, so the resistance of the connection will go up. Which causes the aluminum wiring to heat up and corrode/oxidize even more. Eventually the wire may start to become very hot and melt the insulation jacket (shown in the picture above) or the fixture that it's attached to, and possibly even cause a fire.
Since people usually encounter aluminum wiring when they move into a house that was built in the 70's, I will cover the basic points of safe aluminum wiring. I suggest that, if you're considering purchasing a home with aluminum wiring or have discovered aluminum wiring after moving in, that you hire a licensed electrician to inspect the wiring for the following:
1) Fixtures (eg: outlets and switches) directly attached to aluminum wiring should be rated for it. The device will be stamped with "Al/Cu" or "CO/ALR". The latter supersedes the former, but both are completely safe. These fixtures are somewhat more expensive than the ordinary fixtures.
2) Wires should be properly connected (at least 3/4 way around the screw in a clockwise direction). All connections should be tight. While repeated tightening of the screws can make the problem worse, during the inspection it would pay off to snug up each connection.
{Note that stranded aluminum wiring is still often used for the main service entrance cable at your main panel. It should also be inspected.}
3) The "push-in" terminals are an extreme hazard with an aluminum wires. Any connections using the push-in terminals should be upgraded with the proper screw connections immediately.
4) There should be no signs of overheating: darkened connections, melted insulation, or "baked" fixtures. Any such damage should be repaired by a licensed Electrician and the connection should be upgraded.
5) Connections between aluminum and copper wire need to be handled specially. Current codes require that the connectors used must be specially marked for connecting aluminum to copper. The NEC requires that the wire be connected together using special crimp devices, with an anti-oxidant grease. The tools and materials for the latter are quite expensive - not practical to do it yourself unless you can rent the tool.
{Note that regulations are changing rapidly in this area. Suggest that you discuss any work with an Electrical inspector if you're going to do more than one or two connections.}
6) Any non-rated receptacles can be connected to aluminum wiring by means of a short copper "pigtail". See #5 above.
7) Shows reasonable workmanship: neat wiring, properly stripped (not nicked) wire etc.
If, when considering purchasing a home, my inspection of the exposed wiring (in your prospective home) shows no problems, you can consider the wiring safe. If there are signs of electrical problems in many places (which will be noted on your home inspection report), I suggest you consider a complete electrical inspection and possibly upgrading all branch wiring throughout the house. If the wrong receptacles are used, you can replace them with the proper type, or have the Electrician use pigtails. Having this professionally done by a licensed Electrician can run close to $10.00 per receptacle/switch plus hourly labor.
UPGRADING ALUMINUM WIRING
Wednesday, April 02, 2008
Energy Efficiency (Heat and Energy Loss)
I know everyone works very hard for their money (in order to pay the bills), but what you don't realize is how much of your hard earned energy dollars are actually slipping right through the cracks of your home. Keeping your home at a comfort level (by conditioning it) can be very costly. I know everyone would like to reduce their energy bills in our freezing winter months and then again, in the summer cooling months? Well, a good place to start would be a professional infrared home-energy efficiency inspection. My infrared inspection will actually show you where you are wasting your hard earned energy dollars, and at the same time, I will demonstate how you can properly seal those areas that are pulling your energy dollars to the outside of your house.
There are many building envelope anomalies that can generate significant heat and air conditioning loss, which causes your energy dollars to be wasted in a not-so-tight home.
Sources of Air Leakage in a Typical Home
My infrared camera allows me to perform a comprehensive energy efficiency inspection within your home by locating and pin-pointing those areas where unconditioned air is infiltrating into your living areas. Most air infiltrations are located at wall penetrations (such as windows, doors, vents, etc), and at transition areas of fully insulated walls, ceilings and floors. My thermal scan will identify the smallest of insulation breaches and fissures within the concealed cavities of your walls and ceilings. I will literally show you where you are wasting your precious energy resources and your hard earned dollars. My IR camera enables me to point out exactly where your costly energy dollars are being lost. I will then assist you in determining how to properly insulate those breached areas with minimum damage to your surfaces, so you can get the most out of your heating and cooling systems for many years to come.
No access to the top side of this ceiling, but infrared detects missing insulation
An infrared inspection detects a radiator conducting heat to the exterior.
During a Re-hab, infrared imaging detects missing insulation above ceiling
An infrared home energy efficiency inspection can be used to verify problems caused by poor design, poor workmanship, or material failure. With the ridiculously high priced heating fuel today, my energy audit can pay for itself in as little as one year. This is the ideal inspection to conduct for numerous situations in a typical home…
1) Use my infrared services while I’m performing your Standard home inspection. This valuable option is not included in my standard home inspection fee.
2) You can hire me immediately after completion of your newly constructed home while the home or building is still under warranty with the building contractor. I can also scan your new home on construction stage inspections. (In many cases, those moisture stains on your basement walls are explained away by the builder as "during construction" moisture. It pays to confirm this before the builder’s warranty expires.)
3) If you own an older home that is costing you too much in energy dollars due to excessive air drafts, I can pinpoint those problem areas where cold air is infiltrating your living space. Then, it’s best if you contact a building contractor to upgrade those specific areas that I will be clearly identifying throughout your home. All efficiency information and pictures will be transferred onto a professional thermal report for your convenience.
4) An infrared energy inspection will easily locate any missing insulation behind your finished walls and ceilings. Then, you can contact an insulation contractor to upgrade the areas that I will be identifying throughout your home. These areas will also be clearly identified on a professional energy efficiency report. During this inspection, I can show you how you can insulate specific areas without removing walls or ceilings.
5) I am able to detect potential mold problems behind walls and ceilings. All moisture issues must be mitigated immediately. As I stated previously, infrared imaging does not detect the actual Molds behind your walls and ceilings, but it will detect the issues associated with Mold build-up.
6) Infrared Thermography provides you with a unique opportunity to assess the energy efficiency of your HVAC (heating, ventilating, and air conditioning) systems, including the tightness of the duct work that is located behind your walls and ceilings. In order to prevent deadly carbon monoxide poisoning, this inspection will also test for leaks throughout the vent pipes.
7) An infrared camera will locate those thermal panes that are at the beginning stages of leaking insulated gases. I am able to locate any broken seals in double/triple pane windows that do not visually show signs of condensation as of yet.
Windows look great visually, but infrared detects three thermal barrier leaks
As you can see, having an infrared energy efficiency inspection makes it much easier to positively pinpoint problems throughout your home, instead of simply making an educated guess without the camera. An IR inspection also allows me to communicate my findings with greater understanding to you (the homeowner) instead of just “speaking another language.” As one client had put it very clearly, “This inspection lets my eyes make sense of what my ears are hearing.” Now that makes perfect sense, Right?
The dark blue areas indicates that insulation is missing in this area
Thermal imaging pictures combined with digital photographs can greatly enhance your understanding of just what the problem is and how to go about having it repaired with minimum damage to the home. My final energy efficiency report will enhance your ability to deal directly with the contractors that may be performing the repair work for you. All you have to do is show your contractor the infrared energy efficiency report and they will fully understand your issues. After your contractor completes their upgrade, and before you make any final payment, you can then contact me to perform a final scan to verify that all work was performed correctly.
Looks great visually, until I detect insulation defects with thermal imaging
There are many building envelope anomalies that can generate significant heat and air conditioning loss, which causes your energy dollars to be wasted in a not-so-tight home.
Sources of Air Leakage in a Typical Home
My infrared camera allows me to perform a comprehensive energy efficiency inspection within your home by locating and pin-pointing those areas where unconditioned air is infiltrating into your living areas. Most air infiltrations are located at wall penetrations (such as windows, doors, vents, etc), and at transition areas of fully insulated walls, ceilings and floors. My thermal scan will identify the smallest of insulation breaches and fissures within the concealed cavities of your walls and ceilings. I will literally show you where you are wasting your precious energy resources and your hard earned dollars. My IR camera enables me to point out exactly where your costly energy dollars are being lost. I will then assist you in determining how to properly insulate those breached areas with minimum damage to your surfaces, so you can get the most out of your heating and cooling systems for many years to come.
No access to the top side of this ceiling, but infrared detects missing insulation
An infrared inspection detects a radiator conducting heat to the exterior.
During a Re-hab, infrared imaging detects missing insulation above ceiling
An infrared home energy efficiency inspection can be used to verify problems caused by poor design, poor workmanship, or material failure. With the ridiculously high priced heating fuel today, my energy audit can pay for itself in as little as one year. This is the ideal inspection to conduct for numerous situations in a typical home…
1) Use my infrared services while I’m performing your Standard home inspection. This valuable option is not included in my standard home inspection fee.
2) You can hire me immediately after completion of your newly constructed home while the home or building is still under warranty with the building contractor. I can also scan your new home on construction stage inspections. (In many cases, those moisture stains on your basement walls are explained away by the builder as "during construction" moisture. It pays to confirm this before the builder’s warranty expires.)
3) If you own an older home that is costing you too much in energy dollars due to excessive air drafts, I can pinpoint those problem areas where cold air is infiltrating your living space. Then, it’s best if you contact a building contractor to upgrade those specific areas that I will be clearly identifying throughout your home. All efficiency information and pictures will be transferred onto a professional thermal report for your convenience.
4) An infrared energy inspection will easily locate any missing insulation behind your finished walls and ceilings. Then, you can contact an insulation contractor to upgrade the areas that I will be identifying throughout your home. These areas will also be clearly identified on a professional energy efficiency report. During this inspection, I can show you how you can insulate specific areas without removing walls or ceilings.
5) I am able to detect potential mold problems behind walls and ceilings. All moisture issues must be mitigated immediately. As I stated previously, infrared imaging does not detect the actual Molds behind your walls and ceilings, but it will detect the issues associated with Mold build-up.
6) Infrared Thermography provides you with a unique opportunity to assess the energy efficiency of your HVAC (heating, ventilating, and air conditioning) systems, including the tightness of the duct work that is located behind your walls and ceilings. In order to prevent deadly carbon monoxide poisoning, this inspection will also test for leaks throughout the vent pipes.
7) An infrared camera will locate those thermal panes that are at the beginning stages of leaking insulated gases. I am able to locate any broken seals in double/triple pane windows that do not visually show signs of condensation as of yet.
Windows look great visually, but infrared detects three thermal barrier leaks
As you can see, having an infrared energy efficiency inspection makes it much easier to positively pinpoint problems throughout your home, instead of simply making an educated guess without the camera. An IR inspection also allows me to communicate my findings with greater understanding to you (the homeowner) instead of just “speaking another language.” As one client had put it very clearly, “This inspection lets my eyes make sense of what my ears are hearing.” Now that makes perfect sense, Right?
The dark blue areas indicates that insulation is missing in this area
Thermal imaging pictures combined with digital photographs can greatly enhance your understanding of just what the problem is and how to go about having it repaired with minimum damage to the home. My final energy efficiency report will enhance your ability to deal directly with the contractors that may be performing the repair work for you. All you have to do is show your contractor the infrared energy efficiency report and they will fully understand your issues. After your contractor completes their upgrade, and before you make any final payment, you can then contact me to perform a final scan to verify that all work was performed correctly.
Looks great visually, until I detect insulation defects with thermal imaging
Friday, March 21, 2008
Infrared (Thermal) imaging Applications
There are a host of applications for infrared cameras and there are many issues (throughout the average building) that can be easily detected through infrared imaging.I would like to go explain the many applications that can be detected with infrared imaging. I will start with...
Detecting Hidden Moisture Intrusion
Moisture is the leading cause of costly building upgrades today. Scanning interior surfaces of your building can reveal excess moisture due to roof leaks, plumbing leaks, moisture entering your building at wall penetrations, leaks around windows and doors, locating hidden dampness under resilient flooring, and many other susceptible areas throughout your home.
Moisture on most building materials can easily destroy the structural integrity of a building and nurture Mold within days. The first step in any moisture problem remediation is to quickly and accurately locate and remove all sources of moisture in order to prevent wood rot and Mold. I’ll be able to instantly detect the ultimate source and exact location of any moisture entry area with little or no physical dis-assembly of the premises and minimal disturbance of anyone living in the home. This prevents building owners from ripping out entire walls and ceilings in order to pinpoint a problem area or to repair a leak somewhere inside the surface.
The moist areas of building materials cool when energy is transferred during the water evaporation process; therefore (during a thermal scan), a wet “cooler” area will stand out from the surrounding dry “warmer” surfaces. If I do locate moist areas in your home, I will be taking both digital and thermal pictures of these areas of concern in order to include these findings into your infrared report. Specified sections of wall or ceiling coverings can then be removed in order to perform the repairs that caused the moisture build-up. I will be alleviating the need to remove large sections due to pinpointing the exact location of the moisture build-up. Once the coverings are removed and the source of the leak has been properly repaired and all wet materials have been removed from the building, corrective measures must be taken for drying out the area before any materials can be re-applied. I am able to monitor the drying process for you, and confirm when your building’s damaged area is completely dry (Mold-free) and ready for re-construction. Then your building contractors will be able start installing your finished areas to your specifications.
My infrared camera does not detect the actual Molds behind your walls and ceilings, but will detect the issues associated with Mold build-up. When basement walls are covered by finish materials, thermal imaging can give you a definitive answer as to whether or not there are moisture issues behind these materials. An infrared camera is basically an on-board computer and a display screen that will show me the thermal images and temperatures that quickly identify the moist, cold or warm areas where molds are likely to be growing. Once I successfully locate an affected area, an invasive inspection at that exact location is then recommended. Required corrective actions are now able to be taken immediately, in order to alleviate extensive damage and any Mold accumulation.
You can also hire me for Moisture contamination evaluations after a severe flood, broken water lines, and equipment failure or even before acquiring real estate suspected of having hidden moisture damage. (Hint: Don't believe the story about the house that has musty odors because it has been vacant and closed up for a while. Musty odors are caused by moisture.)
Detecting Hidden Moisture Intrusion
Moisture is the leading cause of costly building upgrades today. Scanning interior surfaces of your building can reveal excess moisture due to roof leaks, plumbing leaks, moisture entering your building at wall penetrations, leaks around windows and doors, locating hidden dampness under resilient flooring, and many other susceptible areas throughout your home.
Moisture on most building materials can easily destroy the structural integrity of a building and nurture Mold within days. The first step in any moisture problem remediation is to quickly and accurately locate and remove all sources of moisture in order to prevent wood rot and Mold. I’ll be able to instantly detect the ultimate source and exact location of any moisture entry area with little or no physical dis-assembly of the premises and minimal disturbance of anyone living in the home. This prevents building owners from ripping out entire walls and ceilings in order to pinpoint a problem area or to repair a leak somewhere inside the surface.
The moist areas of building materials cool when energy is transferred during the water evaporation process; therefore (during a thermal scan), a wet “cooler” area will stand out from the surrounding dry “warmer” surfaces. If I do locate moist areas in your home, I will be taking both digital and thermal pictures of these areas of concern in order to include these findings into your infrared report. Specified sections of wall or ceiling coverings can then be removed in order to perform the repairs that caused the moisture build-up. I will be alleviating the need to remove large sections due to pinpointing the exact location of the moisture build-up. Once the coverings are removed and the source of the leak has been properly repaired and all wet materials have been removed from the building, corrective measures must be taken for drying out the area before any materials can be re-applied. I am able to monitor the drying process for you, and confirm when your building’s damaged area is completely dry (Mold-free) and ready for re-construction. Then your building contractors will be able start installing your finished areas to your specifications.
My infrared camera does not detect the actual Molds behind your walls and ceilings, but will detect the issues associated with Mold build-up. When basement walls are covered by finish materials, thermal imaging can give you a definitive answer as to whether or not there are moisture issues behind these materials. An infrared camera is basically an on-board computer and a display screen that will show me the thermal images and temperatures that quickly identify the moist, cold or warm areas where molds are likely to be growing. Once I successfully locate an affected area, an invasive inspection at that exact location is then recommended. Required corrective actions are now able to be taken immediately, in order to alleviate extensive damage and any Mold accumulation.
You can also hire me for Moisture contamination evaluations after a severe flood, broken water lines, and equipment failure or even before acquiring real estate suspected of having hidden moisture damage. (Hint: Don't believe the story about the house that has musty odors because it has been vacant and closed up for a while. Musty odors are caused by moisture.)
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